Must Try Hokkaido Izakaya in Shibuya: Kushiroya
Shibuya is full of so many “hole in the wall” places, but you’ll know you’ve stumbled upon Kushiroya when you come across a real peep hole on an unassuming Dogenzaka building. Down the stairs, past the photographs of guests, Chef Unuma serves izakaya food from his hometown, Kushiro, in Hokkaido. Try rare regional delicacies and experience the fun and camaraderie of the chef’s “perfect” Japanese izakaya.
Sydney Seekford
Gourmet Creator
American living in Japan since 2022. Food writer and gourmet content creator for Japan’s most well known food media. Founder of menu translation and language support service MENUWIZ. Work history includes copywriting for booking platforms, video and media production and appearances, and consulting in F&B for household brands. Passionate about regional revitalization and slow tourism with a focus on local food culture.
Finding Kushiro in Shibuya
The outer wall of Kushiroya’s building, where you can peep and see the counter
Head up Dogenzaka from Shibuya station’s Hachiko exit, past the Don Quijote and H&M. Turn left at the fork and look for a white sign in fat black marker. “のぞき穴” – “Peep hole.” An arrow points down to a tiny, cracked window. Stoop a little and look in the foggy square of glass to discover Chef Unuma’s perfect bar.
Behind the counter full of bottles of sake, you might see Kushiroya chef-owner Norihiro Unuma working the crowd. In his own words, this izakaya is the prideful dream of his youth. In the hearts of regulars, it's something of a second home.
Head up Dogenzaka from Shibuya station’s Hachiko exit, past the Don Quijote and H&M. Turn left at the fork and look for a white sign in fat black marker. “のぞき穴” – “Peep hole.” An arrow points down to a tiny, cracked window. Stoop a little and look in the foggy square of glass to discover Chef Unuma’s perfect bar.
Behind the counter full of bottles of sake, you might see Kushiroya chef-owner Norihiro Unuma working the crowd. In his own words, this izakaya is the prideful dream of his youth. In the hearts of regulars, it's something of a second home.
View of Kushiroya through the secret peephole
To actually enter Kushiroya, diners descend via elevator or stairs. Take a good look at the wall of photographs just to the side of the elevator doors – all dated 2011, 2012. These photos tell the story of Kushiroya and its community, a family built over a decade and a half. Seeing them, you feel certain: Kushiro is an izakaya where guests simply love to come together and eat good food.
To actually enter Kushiroya, diners descend via elevator or stairs. Take a good look at the wall of photographs just to the side of the elevator doors – all dated 2011, 2012. These photos tell the story of Kushiroya and its community, a family built over a decade and a half. Seeing them, you feel certain: Kushiro is an izakaya where guests simply love to come together and eat good food.
Izakaya Kushiroya
Open: [Monday - Saturday, National Holiday] Dinner 5:00 pm - 12:00 am
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Kushiroya is a small, proprietor owned and operated establishment that crafts each dish from scratch. Its popularity has made Kushiroya a community institution, but also makes last minute cancellations and no-shows especially taxing. Please be aware that same day cancellations and no-contact no-show cancellations will incur penalty fees.
How Kushiroya Became Kushiroya
Chef Unuma behind the counter
At 25, Kushiroya chef and owner Norihiro Unuma was working a white collar job. While his coworkers trumped his experience by a matter of decades, then not-yet-chef “Unuma” dominated in sales, becoming a top salesman nationwide. With newfound confidence, he decided to try his hand at something more exciting – like becoming a chef.
At 25, Kushiroya chef and owner Norihiro Unuma was working a white collar job. While his coworkers trumped his experience by a matter of decades, then not-yet-chef “Unuma” dominated in sales, becoming a top salesman nationwide. With newfound confidence, he decided to try his hand at something more exciting – like becoming a chef.
Dried fish, photos of customers, signatures, and a TV…the perfect izakaya scene.
He admits that he didn’t have any experience cooking when he started. Much less running a restaurant. But chef Unuma imagined the type of izakaya he’d dreamed of visiting as a regular salaryman and was determined to be the one to create it. His ideal izakaya would be a place where you could stop by on the way home for a pint and chat with the owner or watch tv over otsumami (small plates to enjoy with drinks, kind of like tapas) when it’s too busy to converse. He’d dreamed of creating the exact space diners enjoy at the current Kushiroya.
First, chef Unuma gained experience working at his uncle’s Izakaya and developed strong relationships with other restaurateurs in the industry. His network is still extensive, an echo of his direct but kind personality. He remembers asking chefs how they made certain dishes and still appreciates the way they openly shared with him.
He admits that he didn’t have any experience cooking when he started. Much less running a restaurant. But chef Unuma imagined the type of izakaya he’d dreamed of visiting as a regular salaryman and was determined to be the one to create it. His ideal izakaya would be a place where you could stop by on the way home for a pint and chat with the owner or watch tv over otsumami (small plates to enjoy with drinks, kind of like tapas) when it’s too busy to converse. He’d dreamed of creating the exact space diners enjoy at the current Kushiroya.
First, chef Unuma gained experience working at his uncle’s Izakaya and developed strong relationships with other restaurateurs in the industry. His network is still extensive, an echo of his direct but kind personality. He remembers asking chefs how they made certain dishes and still appreciates the way they openly shared with him.
Old fashioned hand-written menu planks (repurposed to hang your coat)
After training and copying the work of his mentors, chef Unuma opened Kushiroya. But at that time, he didn’t have a stable way of gathering new customers. Instead, thanks to his people skills and strong network, he was able to rely on industry connections as reliable patrons. He continued to serve his immediate community, even though that meant staying open until 7am, so friends could visit after their own bars closed at 5. That said, now that Kushiroya has its own steady clientele, Chef Unuma closes at a reasonable 12 am midnight, instead.
Over time, the connection between Kushiroya and Hokkaido itself grew stronger. Chef Unuma is from Kushiro, Hokkaido, making it a natural progression, though not necessarily an intentional one. Since he only had 3 days to choose a store name, it just happened to be that he could make a good name out of “Kushiro” using Japanese number word-play. The pronunciation of 9,4,and 6, whose kanji are used in the store’s name, sound similar to the name of Hokkaido port city. Nowadays, Hokkaido-born athletes and actresses come in their private time. A Kushiroya fan community of sorts has sprung up around shared Hokkaido heritage.
After training and copying the work of his mentors, chef Unuma opened Kushiroya. But at that time, he didn’t have a stable way of gathering new customers. Instead, thanks to his people skills and strong network, he was able to rely on industry connections as reliable patrons. He continued to serve his immediate community, even though that meant staying open until 7am, so friends could visit after their own bars closed at 5. That said, now that Kushiroya has its own steady clientele, Chef Unuma closes at a reasonable 12 am midnight, instead.
Over time, the connection between Kushiroya and Hokkaido itself grew stronger. Chef Unuma is from Kushiro, Hokkaido, making it a natural progression, though not necessarily an intentional one. Since he only had 3 days to choose a store name, it just happened to be that he could make a good name out of “Kushiro” using Japanese number word-play. The pronunciation of 9,4,and 6, whose kanji are used in the store’s name, sound similar to the name of Hokkaido port city. Nowadays, Hokkaido-born athletes and actresses come in their private time. A Kushiroya fan community of sorts has sprung up around shared Hokkaido heritage.
Menu recommendations are offered in English, Korean.
While the bar has a unique story that speaks for itself, guests come from around the world to share this special place. Chef Unuma has fond memories of one-time customers who visit years later and rave that the flavor and space is just as they remember. Private parties and big groups are just as welcome as solo diners coming in to loosen ties after work.
While the bar has a unique story that speaks for itself, guests come from around the world to share this special place. Chef Unuma has fond memories of one-time customers who visit years later and rave that the flavor and space is just as they remember. Private parties and big groups are just as welcome as solo diners coming in to loosen ties after work.
The Space
A whole preserved salmon hands from the ceiling over the bar
The decor, collected over time, consists of dried fish (once food…now fashion!), vintage ads and ship flags like the kind seen in Kushiro’s history museum. These reflect the city’s long history as a port city, logging and shipping hub. If you imagine hard enough, you could even conjure images of Kushiro’s famous fog in the steam and grill-smoke that fills the dining room after an hour of non-stop cooking. Tables are simple, true to the izakaya style, and the bar is stocked with shochu and nihonshu (Japanese sake). The walls are tacked with hand-written menu tags, “the old fashioned way.”
Chef Unuma wanted his izakaya to be a departure from Shibuya, despite being located on the tourist and chain store-heavy Dogenzaka. He styled his restaurant to be more akin to the kind of gritty, locals-only izakaya with 50 years of wear and tear that Tokyoites expect to find in suburbs like Asagaya or Ogikubo. One look around and it’s clear that he’s achieved that over Kushiroya’s 16 years in business. Even with its characteristic patina and local appeal, Kushiroya remains open to newcomers and passerby. It’s easy to feel at home here, which is one aspect that keeps people coming back.
The decor, collected over time, consists of dried fish (once food…now fashion!), vintage ads and ship flags like the kind seen in Kushiro’s history museum. These reflect the city’s long history as a port city, logging and shipping hub. If you imagine hard enough, you could even conjure images of Kushiro’s famous fog in the steam and grill-smoke that fills the dining room after an hour of non-stop cooking. Tables are simple, true to the izakaya style, and the bar is stocked with shochu and nihonshu (Japanese sake). The walls are tacked with hand-written menu tags, “the old fashioned way.”
Chef Unuma wanted his izakaya to be a departure from Shibuya, despite being located on the tourist and chain store-heavy Dogenzaka. He styled his restaurant to be more akin to the kind of gritty, locals-only izakaya with 50 years of wear and tear that Tokyoites expect to find in suburbs like Asagaya or Ogikubo. One look around and it’s clear that he’s achieved that over Kushiroya’s 16 years in business. Even with its characteristic patina and local appeal, Kushiroya remains open to newcomers and passerby. It’s easy to feel at home here, which is one aspect that keeps people coming back.
The Food
Dinner for two at Kushiroya, a selection of classic and signature dishes
Hokkaido is defined by its Northern location as much as by its food. Potatoes, milk, seafood, fruit, wheat, soy and red beans, rice – you name a staple product and there is likely a major industry for it in Hokkaido. Thanks to this, the whole prefecture has earned a reputation for delicious, high quality, and rib-sticking (thanks frigid winters!) cuisine.
Kushiro, being a major fishing port, has some unique food culture of its own, such as the local market’s katte-don a do-it-yourself seafood bowl, and many rare species of fish. It’s also well-known for Hokkaido’s original style of fried chicken, zangi.
Hokkaido is defined by its Northern location as much as by its food. Potatoes, milk, seafood, fruit, wheat, soy and red beans, rice – you name a staple product and there is likely a major industry for it in Hokkaido. Thanks to this, the whole prefecture has earned a reputation for delicious, high quality, and rib-sticking (thanks frigid winters!) cuisine.
Kushiro, being a major fishing port, has some unique food culture of its own, such as the local market’s katte-don a do-it-yourself seafood bowl, and many rare species of fish. It’s also well-known for Hokkaido’s original style of fried chicken, zangi.
Izakaya Kushiroya
Open: [Monday - Saturday, National Holiday] Dinner 5:00 pm - 12:00 am
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Note same day cancellations and no-shows will incur penalty fees! Please reserve responsibly.
Hokkaido Specialties
Gotappe (640 JPY), fried crispy to be eaten whole
At Kushiroya, you can enjoy a dish that even most Japanese people haven’t ever heard of: Gotappe. The fish themselves are called komai, a name which refers to their tendency to swim in icy waters. They’re eaten throughout Russia and Japan, yet haven’t made it into the public canon the way tuna and uni (sea urchin) have. After gutting, the hand-length fish can be fried and eaten whole on their own or with a spritz of lemon, right down to the tail.
The meat is properly meaty, like cod (a close cousin) but less flakey, and almost sticky in its chicken-tender-like bite. They have the same kind of mild sweetness that makes a fish stick beloved by children and adults alike, wrapped in a thin layer of batter. Gotappe is a rare dish and true hallmark of Hokkaido, something people from chef Unuma’s home town come here to enjoy but which is easily overlooked by those not in the know. It’s something that might not exist in all the rest of Tokyo. Make the leap and try it while you’re at Kushiroya.
At Kushiroya, you can enjoy a dish that even most Japanese people haven’t ever heard of: Gotappe. The fish themselves are called komai, a name which refers to their tendency to swim in icy waters. They’re eaten throughout Russia and Japan, yet haven’t made it into the public canon the way tuna and uni (sea urchin) have. After gutting, the hand-length fish can be fried and eaten whole on their own or with a spritz of lemon, right down to the tail.
The meat is properly meaty, like cod (a close cousin) but less flakey, and almost sticky in its chicken-tender-like bite. They have the same kind of mild sweetness that makes a fish stick beloved by children and adults alike, wrapped in a thin layer of batter. Gotappe is a rare dish and true hallmark of Hokkaido, something people from chef Unuma’s home town come here to enjoy but which is easily overlooked by those not in the know. It’s something that might not exist in all the rest of Tokyo. Make the leap and try it while you’re at Kushiroya.
Imo mochi (potato dumpling with cheese, 600 JPY) a Hokkaido classic
While gotappe is a rare delicacy, another Hokkaido specialty at Kushiroya is a perennial favorite with guests from all over. Lightly grilled, stretchy imo mochi are made of Hokkaido-grown potatoes stuffed with soft cheese. The whole dumpling is savory and crave-worthy, going down great with a sip of beer. The mild cheesy flavor is appealing to just about everyone, and the uniquely soft texture of the “potato mochi” is similar to gnocchi but much more pliable. Take a bite and pull it apart with your teeth, or split it in half with chopsticks if you’re an expert.
While gotappe is a rare delicacy, another Hokkaido specialty at Kushiroya is a perennial favorite with guests from all over. Lightly grilled, stretchy imo mochi are made of Hokkaido-grown potatoes stuffed with soft cheese. The whole dumpling is savory and crave-worthy, going down great with a sip of beer. The mild cheesy flavor is appealing to just about everyone, and the uniquely soft texture of the “potato mochi” is similar to gnocchi but much more pliable. Take a bite and pull it apart with your teeth, or split it in half with chopsticks if you’re an expert.
Chicken
Kushiroya’s signature fried chicken (1,280 JPY)
A whole half chicken, called the “Kaburitsuki Wakadori” is served with original zantare and a slice of citrus is both authentic to Hokkaido and approachable for first time guests. The meat is left bone-in and fried to a light crisp. Both white meat and dark meat portions are left intact. The bird is flash-fried at a high temperature so that even the fine bones become light and crisp, like a meaty cracker.
Chef Unuma serves it with small a dab of yuzukosho, a bright, spicy and salty condiment that’s perfect against the winter cold. While the chicken is already seasoned and delicious on its own, a little yuzukosho or a dip in the intensely peppery zantare (which is thicker than it looks) takes the flavor one step further. The outside of the chicken is fried to a satisfying crisp while the inside remains fresh and meaty.
A whole half chicken, called the “Kaburitsuki Wakadori” is served with original zantare and a slice of citrus is both authentic to Hokkaido and approachable for first time guests. The meat is left bone-in and fried to a light crisp. Both white meat and dark meat portions are left intact. The bird is flash-fried at a high temperature so that even the fine bones become light and crisp, like a meaty cracker.
Chef Unuma serves it with small a dab of yuzukosho, a bright, spicy and salty condiment that’s perfect against the winter cold. While the chicken is already seasoned and delicious on its own, a little yuzukosho or a dip in the intensely peppery zantare (which is thicker than it looks) takes the flavor one step further. The outside of the chicken is fried to a satisfying crisp while the inside remains fresh and meaty.
Pub favorites
Fried octopus (690 JPY), a Hokkaido-inspired substitute for classic karaage
Of course, many guests come for the standard pub favorites. Edamame are served warm and made to order, a subtle touch that regulars appreciate. Normally, edamame are chilled and come out as soon as the drinks are served, but here extra care is put into preparing the Hokkaido-grown soy beans.
The tako kaarage, fried morsels of soft octopus, are popular with both domestic and visiting guests. They’re similar to the calamari at popular chains overseas, but with an addictively soft texture and flavorful batter.
Kushiroya has a wide selection of secret menu items that chef Unuma is happy to offer guests who are able to speak a little Japanese. Think of it as a reward for knowing the secret password. However, he says that if you can find photos of the dish you’d like to try on Kushiroya’s official Instagram account, he might be able to make it for you, assuming he has the ingredients.
Of course, many guests come for the standard pub favorites. Edamame are served warm and made to order, a subtle touch that regulars appreciate. Normally, edamame are chilled and come out as soon as the drinks are served, but here extra care is put into preparing the Hokkaido-grown soy beans.
The tako kaarage, fried morsels of soft octopus, are popular with both domestic and visiting guests. They’re similar to the calamari at popular chains overseas, but with an addictively soft texture and flavorful batter.
Kushiroya has a wide selection of secret menu items that chef Unuma is happy to offer guests who are able to speak a little Japanese. Think of it as a reward for knowing the secret password. However, he says that if you can find photos of the dish you’d like to try on Kushiroya’s official Instagram account, he might be able to make it for you, assuming he has the ingredients.
Closing
Kushiroya tablescape
Fans of the television series Midnight Diner might find some similarities between Chef Unuma’s style and the master’s kitchen. Regulars come in and sometimes request off-menu items that bring back important memories. People stroll in off the street, are met with a taste of Hokkaido and recall their childhood there or find new friends in the fellow strangers at the counter.
For visitors coming in from overseas, Kushiroya represents many of the ideal aspects of visiting an izakaya. From the authenticity to the intimacy, and even the characteristic roughness that makes it feel like a place people genuinely visit and love. Kushiroya isn’t stuffy or inflated, it’s just a place where the chef cooks the food he likes and works to make people feel satisfied and welcome.
If this kind of authentic experience is something you’re looking for while visiting Japan, there are few better spots to try it than Kushiroya. With convenient reservation options and station access, a menu full of both unique regional foods and crowd-pleasing favorites, and the kind of familiar community atmosphere that makes anyone feel welcome, Kushiroya is a one of a kind Izakaya in Shibuya.
Fans of the television series Midnight Diner might find some similarities between Chef Unuma’s style and the master’s kitchen. Regulars come in and sometimes request off-menu items that bring back important memories. People stroll in off the street, are met with a taste of Hokkaido and recall their childhood there or find new friends in the fellow strangers at the counter.
For visitors coming in from overseas, Kushiroya represents many of the ideal aspects of visiting an izakaya. From the authenticity to the intimacy, and even the characteristic roughness that makes it feel like a place people genuinely visit and love. Kushiroya isn’t stuffy or inflated, it’s just a place where the chef cooks the food he likes and works to make people feel satisfied and welcome.
If this kind of authentic experience is something you’re looking for while visiting Japan, there are few better spots to try it than Kushiroya. With convenient reservation options and station access, a menu full of both unique regional foods and crowd-pleasing favorites, and the kind of familiar community atmosphere that makes anyone feel welcome, Kushiroya is a one of a kind Izakaya in Shibuya.
Izakaya Kushiroya
Open: [Monday - Saturday, National Holiday] Dinner 5:00 pm - 12:00 am
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,500 JPY
Access: Five minute walk from JR Shibuya station. Take Hachiko exit and turn right at the intersection down Dogenzaka road. Take a left at Dogenzaka 2-Chome interection, and it is located 50m futher on the left hand side.
Address: Koike Bldg. B1, 2-23-1 Dogenzaka , Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Note same day cancellations and no-shows will incur penalty fees! Please reserve responsibly.
Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.
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Discover Restaurants By Area
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Tokyo Area
Japan's largest city, Tokyo, is the center of culinary culture in Japan. Countless Tokyo restaurants serve every kind of food imaginable and the Toyosu fish market keeps restaurants stocked with the nation's finest fish.
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Near Tokyo
Coastal areas, mountains and valleys surrounding Tokyo are bursting with tourist destinations, such as hot springs and ski slopes, where many unique foods are only available locally.
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Kyoto and Osaka Area
The cities of Kyoto and Osaka, together with their surrounding areas, have greatly influenced Japan's culinary culture since the 7th Century. The region is renowned for its entertainment, Kobe beef, and wide-ranging traditional dishes.
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Hokkaido Area
The island of Hokkaido is home to wide-ranging produce of the finest quality, such as rice, meat, vegetables, fish and fruit. Popular dishes from Hokkaido include robatayaki (food slowly roasted on skewers) and Sapporo miso ramen.
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Northern Honshu (Tohoku)
The northern end of Japan's main island, Honshu, is renowned for its seasonal fruit and vegetables, nation-leading harvest of fish (especially tuna from Ohma), and delicious beef from Yonezawa, Sendai and Yamagata.
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Central Honshu (Chubu)
Chubu is in the center of Japan's main island, Honshu, and its culinary culture reflects its position between Japan's western and eastern halves. Delicious Hida beef, world-famous Mount Fuji and many acclaimed sake breweries are in Chubu.
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Western Honshu (Chugoku)
Chugoku, on the southwest of Japan's main island, is rich with diverse produce. Many of its products are praised as Japan's best, including Matsuba crabs from Tottori and oysters from Hiroshima. Its pears and muscats are also top grade.
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Shikoku
The mild climate of Shikoku is ideal for growing citrus fruit such as sudachi. Shikoku is also famous for Sanuki udon noodles, huge yields of tiger prawn from Ehime Prefecture and the best torafugu (tiger globefish) in the country.
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Kyushu
Western culture was first introduced to Japan through Kyushu, Japan's third largest island, where the influence of Portuguese and other western cuisine influenced the creation of a colorful culinary tradition.
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Okinawa and Ryukyu Islands
Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost prefecture, is a treasure trove of distinctive dishes and drinks that have become popular throughout Japan, including Okinawa soba, unique sushi toppings and Awamori distilled liquor.