Eating Honest Wagyu Burgers at Wagyu Brothers, Asakusa


Two home towns, one Asakusa.

Outside The Wagyu Brothers’ second floor space, Japan is just as Japanese as ever. But as we sit under the blasting AC, sipping cola and chowing down on burgers made by a guy in a red-white-and-blue baseball cap, we can’t help feeling a little nostalgic. To make the scene that much better, it just so happens that our visit to this from-scratch wagyu burger specialty shop fell on the Fourth of July.




Even though the shop serves wagyu burgers, its hamburgers don’t suffer from the difficulty many such restaurants do. It’s too common to find wagyu burger shops with pricey, rich patties that sacrifice meaty flavor in order to maximize the succulence of marbled wagyu. The Wagyu Brothers’ homemade burgers aren’t trying to ride the smashburger trend either – they’re a regular width throughout, simply seasoned and grilled on a flat-top.


This burger is just one way that Chef Wataru Kikuchi uses his food to offer glimpses of Japan through a lens he believes foreign visitors can cherish. Which is important for a restaurant where 95% of customers are from overseas. To make the restaurant comfortable for their clientele, a lot of thought goes in beyond the menu itself. Even the layout is designed to accommodate guests who might not prefer to be crammed into the intimacy of a ramen counter. At The Wagyu Brothers, in a space made for their comfort, visitors can taste authentic Japanese food through a familiar filter.
According to Chef Kikuchi, one of the most fun interactions is hearing customers’ surprise at the authenticity preserved in his burgers. With the sukiyaki burger, diners are enjoying a soul food of Japan and a soul food of America at once – people can deeply appreciate the chef’s home culture while feeling his love for foreign ones. Both elements are prepared with equal care to bring out their best, neither talking over the other too much.


The value of protecting authenticity

Even with such involved prep, the brothers are always innovating and creating. When an especially choice cut, such as A5 rump steak comes in, it’s transformed into an equally special burger.
At the same time, innovating within the confines of the hamburger box gives Chef Kikuchi license to create items like the Hawaii-inspired loco moco burger. This limited edition burger, designed to serve with Hawaiian brewed beer, is one part of a series. Every month they challenge themselves to create a pairing for the beer list which changes to highlight different states. This one was topped with pineapple and gravy instead of the demi-glace sauce that’s usually served with Japanese loco moco.

Ingredients as they are, for the better.

THE WAGYU BROTHERS
Closed: Monday
Average price: [Dinner] 3,000 JPY
Access: 15-second walk from the Kaminarimon. Go through the Kaminarimon gate, turn left immediately, and it's on the 2nd floor of the building next to Starbucks.
Address: 2F, Endo Bldg., 1-18-3, Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo Map
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Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.
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