Japanese Wild Game Becomes French Fine Dining at Shibuya’s Lature

Intro


LATURE
Closed: Irregular
Average price: [Dinner] 20,000 JPY / [Lunch] 7,000 JPY
Access: 6-minute walk from Exit B1 of Omote-sando Station (Tokyo Metro Hanzomon, Ginza, and Chiyoda Lines), 7-minute walk from the Hikarie Exit of JR Shibuya Station
Address: B1F, Aoyama Luke Bldg., 2-2-2, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
About Lature

At one table, a young American couple beams about the quality of the desserts. At another, a group of four French-speakers (with a bottle of wine open each) are engaged in a lively conversation. Out of sight, Cantonese chattering occasionally cuts through the lulls. Although these guests might not know it, they are all taking part in Chef Murota’s mission to highlight Japanese gibier for a more sustainable future.

In head chef Takuto Murota’s efforts to make Japan’s gibier more widely known, Lature actively welcomes diners of all backgrounds. His philosophy isn’t about catering to tourists – plenty of local diners also love Lature – but about showing the world a long-lasting part of Japan’s culinary landscape it often overlooks. There was a time when game hunting was an essential part of pre-modern Japan and humans lived in harmony with the wilderness. Chef Murota believes chefs like himself are the key to returning to a more harmonious relationship between man and nature – starting with what’s on the plate.
Chef Murota and the Birth of Lature

In an interview with Japanese journalist Mayuko Yamaguchi, Chef Murota explains that it was a taste of rustic French cooking that inspired him to become a chef in the first place. In middle school, he was moved by the classic French pork-blood sausage, boudin noir. Some of that memory is surely reflected in Lature’s signature blood macaron, a buttery smooth ganache of deer’s blood and spices sandwiched between two perfect rounds of almond cookie.
Sustainable Meat for the Future

This mind-bending experience is one of the secrets behind Chef Murota’s cooking. By creating genuinely delicious food that both Japanese and international diners can enjoy without pretense, Chef Murota believes that culinary professionals like himself can solve some of the problems society deals with every day. Introducing game as a staple instead of a novelty, he believes, may be the key, though many countries don’t have a food tradition of eating wild game or even enjoying farmed meat nose-to-tail. Some cultures, like Japan, have been turned off of hunting and game meat only in recent decades.

The chef acknowledges that game like ducks and deer that live in human-polluted areas or are handled improperly, even when deemed fit to be used as meat, aren’t at a quality that would encourage the average diner to fully embrace gibier. This realization is part of what encouraged him to seek a deeper understanding of animal terroir and game itself.

The course makes heavy use of ingredients from Japan’s most well-established production regions, including a farm in Chiba contracted by Lature. Each year, staff take time to work the farm, forging an even closer relationship to their ingredients.
LATURE
Closed: Irregular
Average price: [Dinner] 20,000 JPY / [Lunch] 7,000 JPY
Access: 6-minute walk from Exit B1 of Omote-sando Station (Tokyo Metro Hanzomon, Ginza, and Chiyoda Lines), 7-minute walk from the Hikarie Exit of JR Shibuya Station
Address: B1F, Aoyama Luke Bldg., 2-2-2, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
The Course

Chilled Appetizer: Kurumi-soba inspired Yellowtail

A Pair of Pies

A jellied consomme and accents of fruity pickles and purees adds brightness to a classic chilled dish that pits different proteins head to head. Just enough “crout” pastry dough is present to hold its shape, but ultimately the dish becomes a mastercourse in wild charcuterie, allowing guests to enjoy the unique aspects of each animal little by little. By comparing the different delicious qualities of each protein, diners are able to appreciate the gifts of nature and understand the value and versatility of game meat.

Fish and sheets of nori alternate within, surrounded by a pillow of Chiba oyster and scallop mousse. Just enough herby green is present in the sauce to keep the luscious dish fresh and the flakey texture of the tachiuo provides an excellent contrast to the creamy pâté that defined the chilly pâté en croûte.

Hokkaido Venison

Dessert


No more pungent than butter but rich with the knowledge that its consumption is doing something a little nice for the planet, that financier feels like the perfect tie up to Lature’s adventurous course.
Lature’s Legacy and Meaning

He has worked with canned goods manufacturers to develop quick game-based products and hosts cooking workshops for young people to introduce gibier as a protein for home cooking, believing that if game can be accepted and spread to the dinner table as a staple, it could be the answer to some of Japan’s most pressing ecological debates. Perhaps one day his students could also become chefs, carrying Murota’s dream into the future.

Even the wine list balances French bottles with domestic ones. We enjoyed a Yamanashi-prefecture produced natural wine made from domestic koshu grapes. The owners of that vineyard too, speak to the importance of animals and uncontrolled nature in helping their wine become its best self. Even its moniker, Deux Lapins, invites the imagery of wild rabbits in a vegetable garden.
Sustainable Dining Now, and for the Future

With luck, and hard work by chefs like Murota, wild game will enjoy the same success and come to be just as well loved and known to travelers as the iconic tamago-sando. For now, Lature is an example of gibier at its best, a worthy stop for anyone looking to try something unique and unforgettable during their visit.
LATURE
Closed: Irregular
Average price: [Dinner] 20,000 JPY / [Lunch] 7,000 JPY
Access: 6-minute walk from Exit B1 of Omote-sando Station (Tokyo Metro Hanzomon, Ginza, and Chiyoda Lines), 7-minute walk from the Hikarie Exit of JR Shibuya Station
Address: B1F, Aoyama Luke Bldg., 2-2-2, Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Map
More Details Reservation
Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.
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